“Haute couture”, we hear those two words thrown into pop culture shows, or magazines. The focus tends to gravitate towards the “ugly and the bad”. People know WHO was at the show, instead of what was actually showcased. Haute couture is harshly critiqued. To some, its art, to others, its the ugliest thing they’ve ever seen. Now, something people don’t understand that couture is meant to be over the top. It is not something you can wear on the street, it truly is art.
Artists over the years have always been criticized for being “outcasts”, or “rebels” of society. Some of the most famous and influential artists of our time were looked down upon because they were doing things “out of line”. They were “too over the top”, and considered uncivil. The only way to write history is to change the rules, and make your own. This is exactly what fashion designers do. They push the envelope to create a story in which the protagonists are the articles of clothing, and we are the spectators and readers. With that being said, “haute couture” derives from French meaning, “handmade dresses”, ultimately, stating that no sewing machines were used. Haute couture can be critiqued for being too much, but what some fail to see, is the immense work that seamstress do in order to create a masterpiece. Many of these designers only create one dress of a particular design, literally making it, “one-of-a-kind”. Each jewel or seam are delicately made by seamstresses that dedicate months, even years to one article of clothing. No machine can compete with what the hands are capable of. I have seen seamstresses sew each crystal, ever so carefully, their fingers look like ballet dancers moving graciously with a needle and thread. It truly is a magical experience to see.
The shows I decided to analyze are, Chanel, Christian Dior, Versace, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Chanel began their show in a classic, all white venue. The influence of this line derived from the attire of the 1800, specifically the structural silhouettes of the coats. The models wore structural coats with what appeared to be shorts underneath, and finished the look with bejeweled flip flops. The shoe choice, expressed the casualness of the outfit, by counterbalancing the very strong structural and heavy coats. A couple of A-line dresses made their way into the show. All the pieces were heavily decorated with embellishments. Overall, the collection was very Chanel, I wouldn’t have expected anything less.
Christian Dior on the other hand shocked me with their collection. I have always been a fan of Dior haute couture because of their innovation, yet their loyalty to original silhouettes and feminine textiles. This collection however, showcased a more contemporary feel. There wasn’t any coherence in the collection, in my opinion. The collection began with classic signature Dior silhouettes in white, followed by dark jumpsuits and bright colored heels, while having some mini skirts. The collection continued with extremely long coats with basic undershirts and long bright colored trousers. Unfortunately, I did expect more from Dior.
Versace had an interesting smaller collection that, in my opinion played with paradoxes of tailored suits and floor length gowns. The collection showed pieces that were half gowns and half suits. Though everything was impeccably tailored, I failed to understand the message.
The Gaultier show had a rough start as their opening model fell multiple times on the runway. The runway itself looked like a hazard for stilettos. Gaultier is known for his over the top effect in his shows, so this collection did not take me by surprise. It had a very vampy, gothic feel, with a touch of flashback to the disco era. There was an overall dark feel to the collection with overwhelming metallics and reds. But what to expect, its Gaultier.
As ridiculous as an artist or designer maybe, let’s not be so quick to judge, usually they are the ones whom set the standard for the upcoming trends. Instead, let’s admire not the pieces of clothing that meets the eye, but the works of art that many hands have done. A round of applause for the true artists.
-The historian
Illustrát Collection 